Seville, Long Way

Yesterday, late at the evening, I found out that there are no fast trains connecting Madrid and Sevilla. I mean, the high speed trains exist, but they all were cancelled due to some tragic accident a month ago, and there are some works, which are still in progress. I did not have any idea that the trains were cancelled, so I started searching in rush the way how to get to Sevilla. I just could not skip visiting this city, because I have already paid for the hotel, and my return plane ticket to Prague is also from Sevilla airport. 

I was even considering using the bus, but 8 hours on a bus is too much for me. Luckily, I have found the train tickets, with the same duration of 8 hours, but with the change at the city Jaen. So, instead of 3 hours on the high-speed train, I would need to spend half of a day on the road :-(

Early in the morning I went to the central railway station of Madrid, Madrid Puerta de Atocha, which is quite close to the city centre. This is my third time when I used my transport card in Madrid. So, I will have some journeys left for my next visiting of Madrid, I hope they will not disappear. 

My long journey to Andalusia finally has started. And then I have discovered another bad piece of news. Between two trains there will be an additional bus. Just my luck!

Nevertheless, I was not lost between the stops, and arrived to Sevilla safe and sound. It is 18:30, only 30 minutes delay, and I still have time to observe some of the city, but first I need to get to my hotel.

By the way, Seville’s main railway station, Santa Justa, was built for Spain’s first high-speed train line, which opened in 1992 between Seville and Madrid. That line made Spain one of the earliest countries in Europe to adopt true high-speed rail, before many other countries had even started planning theirs.

The station’s design is intentionally simple and functional compared to older Spanish stations. That’s because it was built during a time when Spain was rapidly modernizing its infrastructure ahead of Expo ’92, and efficiency mattered more than decoration. The most interesting part is the huge roof over the tracks. It’s made of steel and glass, so sunlight comes in easily. So, during the day, you almost don’t need artificial lights. It feels open, not heavy or crowded.

The walk to the edge of the historic center from the railway station is about 15–20 minutes. So, when you walk straight out of the station, the first thing you see isn't a palace; it’s a lot of blocky, beige and gray apartment buildings.

Another interesting fact, Sevilla is famous for having over 40000 orange trees, more than any other city in the world. And now I can see numerous trees planted along the streets. One of the main reasons of so many orange trees in the city is that the thick, evergreen leaves provide year-round shade for the warmest city in continental Europe (summer temperatures (July–August) frequently exceed 40°C here).

Suddenly, the view is changing to more narrow streets with 300-year-old houses, towers and churches. In fact, Sevilla is most famous for its unique fusion of Islamic and Christian styles, which creates a look found nowhere else in the world. The thing is that from 711 to 1248, much of southern Spain, including Seville, was under Muslim rule (Al-Andalus). And this left a strong architectural legacy in such details as: intricate geometric patterns (designed with many tiny, repeating shapes), horseshoe arches, decorative tilework (azulejos), courtyards with fountains and gardens etc.

The first wow-object in the city centre for me was the Metropol Parasol, also called “Las Setas” (The Mushrooms), which is a large modern structure in Seville that looks like a group of giant wooden mushrooms. It was built between 2005 and 2011 and designed by Jurgen Mayer.

The building has different levels. Underneath it, there are ancient Roman ruins that were discovered during construction. At ground level, there is a market and open public space. On top, there is a walkway where people can walk and see views over the city.

It looks very impressive and unusual, because it combines very old history with modern architecture in one place. It also stands out a lot, because its smooth, curved shape is completely different from the traditional buildings around it.

Now I am on the small square, just a few steps from the busy city centre, in front of my hotel.

It is called Hotel Sevilla. The lobby and the corridors are so aesthetic, with the vibe of boutique hotel, where you can enjoy walking in.

Still, my room is very ascetic, without grand view, but I am very satisfied with my choice, because of the perfect location and affordable price (182 euro for two nights). Next time I would love to stay here again.

After checking-in I headed in search of some food, because I was starving. I have decided to stay in some bar and to order some tapas. Honestly, it was very simple food (patatas bravas, croquetas, calamares), quite greasy, but enough not to feel hungry anymore. All in all, including non-alcoholic beer, I have paid 23.15 euro. For the next time I have promised to myself to look for the restaurant more carefully.

After such food full of calories I should walk a little bit around the night city.

For tomorrow, I am planning to observe as much of the city as possible, so, I need to start my walking early in the morning.

Madrid, Sunny Day

The breakfast at my hostal is surprisingly very good. For me it is very important that they have eggs for breakfast, because I need protein for my muscles!

I have some time for morning strolling around the city before meeting my friends. Yesterday I did not have opportunity to see the city, but today I will try to use my free time to observe the beautiful corners of Madrid.

I am staying in a very central location, so the famous Plaza Mayor is just 7 minutes walking from my hostal.

Plaza Mayor, which is one of the most famous and architecturally harmonious squares in Madrid, was built in 1617. The rectangular square measures about 129 meters long and 94 meters wide and is surrounded by three-story buildings with 237 balconies overlooking the plaza. These numerous balconies surrounding the square create a visual enclosure that makes it feel both grand and intimate, like a huge outdoor room in the heart of the city. The square has nine entrances, including the well-known Arco de Cuchilleros.

There are no major government offices or political institutions here. These days the square is mainly used for tourism, culture and public events.

On the photos below you can see all four corners of this huge square. By the way, Plaza Mayor de la Hispanidad in Medina del Campo (Valladolid) with 14000 m2 is officially considered to be the largest classical main square in Spain, while the square in Madrid with 12000 m2 is on the second place.

Because Plaza Mayor is a large, open rectangular space, it can act like a wind tunnel, especially when the wind is funneled through the nine archway entrances or along the streets surrounding the square. It seems that on this windy but sunny day I have got a draft in my ear.

One of the prominent historical building on the square is Casa de la Panaderia, which currently houses parts of the Madrid city administration, including the Madrid Tourism Center. The name means “House of the Bakery”, because the building once served as Madrid’s main bakery, responsible for regulating and supplying bread to the city. Bread prices were controlled here, which was very important in earlier centuries when bread was a basic food for most people.

The building stands on the north side of Plaza Mayor and is easy to recognize thanks to its painted facade decorated with large frescoes showing mythological figures and symbols related to Madrid, which were added in 1992 by artist Carlos Franco. In the middle of the facade of Casa de la Panaderia in Madrid there is an important decorative element: the coat of arms of Madrid - with a bear reaching up to a strawberry tree (madrono).

In the center of the square you can also see a large equestrian statue of King Philip III that was placed there in 1848. It was installed there to honor the king’s role in developing the square and shaping the city during his reign. King Philip III of Spain (1578–1621) was the king of Spain from 1598 until 1621 and a member of the powerful House of Habsburg. He was the son of Philip II of Spain, one of the most influential rulers of the Spanish Empire.

I still have time to walk around the city. And I have seen so many cute and picturesque spaces here, including small squares, big bridges, tall towers, green parks and stylish resident houses.

Coming back to my hostal trough the Plaza Mayor. It is only 11 am, but there are so many tourists here now!

I go to the Prado museum with my friends now. It is the first experience for them, but I have already visited it some years ago. First of all, you should buy the ticket to the museum online (the cost is 30 euro), otherwise you would not enter there. But even with the ticket for the specific time slot we had to wait in the queue around 20 minutes.

It is still not allowed to make any photos at the museum, as it was while my previous visiting it. But I could not use an opportunity to memorize my impressions. As before, my favorite masterpieces here are the paintings of German artist Albrecht Durer (1471-1528): his self-portrait and "Adam and Eve" on two separate panels.

It is always emotionally exhausting to watch the art, so we need some fresh air and food four our body now.

Other friends also joined us later, and we continued spending time together. Lunch at Vietnamese restaurant, coffee, walking, talking.

We are on the Puerta del Sol, which is the bustling heart of Madrid and the symbolic center of Spain. The main landmark here which you cannot not miss is "The Bear and the Strawberry Tree" (El Oso y el Madrono), the 20-ton bronze statue on the east side of the square representing the city's coat of arms. They say, if you touch the bear's tail it will bring you a good fortune. Unfortunately, my friends told me about this statue only when we had left the square. So, now I should return to Madrid and polish my good luck!

Indeed, it was a very long day for me, with many activities and walks, with around 22500 steps. A bit worn out, but satisfied.

Tomorrow starts the second part of my Spanish journey. I cannot wait the morning..